What Is Mohair? History, Origins and Characteristics

WHAT IS MOHAIR? 

Mohair is a natural fibre produced from the fleece of the Angora goat. The name is believed to come from the Arabic word mukhayyar, a term once used to describe a fine and luxurious fabric. For generations, mohair has been appreciated for its distinctive appearance, durability and softness.

Unlike traditional sheep's wool, mohair has a natural sheen and a smooth texture. It is strong yet lightweight, warm in cooler weather and comfortable to wear when temperatures rise. These qualities have helped mohair remain popular for centuries and continue to make it a valued material today.

As interest in natural fibres continues to grow, attention is also being given to responsible farming practices and sustainable production methods throughout the mohair industry.

 THE ORIGINS AND HISTORY OF MOHAIR

The exact origins of the Angora goat remain a subject of debate. While some theories point towards Central Asia, the breed is traditionally associated with Anatolia, the region that makes up much of modern-day Turkey. More specifically, the historical Angora region, now centred around Ankara, is widely regarded as the home of the Angora goat. The breed itself takes its name from this region.

For centuries, Angora goats and the fibre they produced were considered a valuable asset within the Ottoman Empire. Breeding animals were rarely allowed to leave the region, helping the empire maintain control over the production of high-quality mohair. This situation changed during the nineteenth century, when restrictions on exports began to ease and Angora goats gradually spread to other parts of the world.

One country in particular benefited from this expansion: South Africa. Today, South Africa is the world's largest producer of mohair and is responsible for more than half of global production. According to a well-known historical account, the foundations of the South African mohair industry were laid in 1838 when Angora goats were first introduced to the country. Although parts of this story have become something of a legend, there is little doubt about the importance of this moment in the development of the industry.

Over time, Angora goats were also introduced to other regions, including the United States, where Texas became an important centre of mohair production. Today, the United States contributes roughly 10–15% of the world's annual mohair supply.

Attempts to establish Angora goat farming in Europe began much earlier. Historical records suggest that mohair was already known in Europe during the sixteenth century, and breeding animals were imported in an effort to establish local herds. Early projects in Spain and France were not particularly successful, although Angora goats can still be found in several European countries today.

 MOHAIR IN FASHION AND TEXTILES

Centuries of breeding, fibre selection and processing have helped shape mohair into one of the most recognised natural fibres in the textile world. Its reputation is built not only on its appearance but also on generations of expertise passed down through the industry.

Today, mohair is used in a wide range of garments, including sweaters, cardigans, scarves, hats and other knitwear. Its subtle sheen and elegant appearance have made it a favourite among designers and luxury fashion houses for decades.

Mohair is also frequently blended with other natural fibres such as silk, merino wool and cashmere. These combinations allow manufacturers to combine the strengths of different fibres, creating yarns that are soft, lightweight and durable.

Despite the rise of synthetic materials, demand for high-quality mohair remains steady. Many consumers continue to appreciate natural fibres for their comfort, longevity and timeless appeal.

 MOHAIR AND SUSTAINABILITY

Sustainability has become an increasingly important topic within the mohair industry. In South Africa, where most of the world's mohair is produced, considerable attention is given to animal welfare, responsible land management and supply chain transparency.

One of the most widely recognised initiatives is the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS), which provides independent certification and auditing throughout the production process — from Angora goat farms to finished textile products.

From its origins in Anatolia to the vast Angora goat farms of modern South Africa, mohair has travelled a remarkable path through history. Thanks to its distinctive qualities and long-standing reputation, it remains one of the most respected natural fibres in the textile industry.

In this first article, we explored the origins, history and modern significance of mohair. At MATTILDE KNITWEAR, we work exclusively with premium kid mohair and silk yarns, selected for their exceptional softness, lightness and elegant appearance. In our next article, we explore why this blend has become the signature material behind our handmade knitwear.